Any trip to Barbados would not be complete without indulging in rum. The island is the birthplace of this strong liquor, with a long history and culture based around it. When Michele and I returned to Barbados for our second trip we decided we should have a day where she would relax on the beach, and I would explore the island absorbing the local rum culture. I had a plan; after breakfast I would venture to Speightstown, far north on the island, and make my way back, visiting the rum shops that the island is famous for. If all went well, I would return early in the afternoon....My journey started on Thursday morning, I took the bus into Bridgetown, grabbed a coconut water to hydrate, then transferred to the Speightstown bus to begin the ride north. Packed full of people, we left the bus terminal. It’s a long ride, so in the meantime, what’s a rum shop?
Imagine your favorite local bar. Usually, it’s just the regulars; everyday folks from right around the neighborhood. Now, take that setting, and place it in the Caribbean. Take that building, reduce it to the size of a small one story house. Add several open doors for a welcoming environment. Have a few tables and chairs, maybe some radios and televisions. Stock the bar with flasks of rum and liquor, Banks and/or other beers, and perhaps groceries and such. There might be a small kitchen serving up some local eats, a few snacks, and not much else. Leave now if you like “Fancy”.
Back to the bus ride....More folks got on at each stop and now the bus was crammed and stuffy, even with all of the windows open. Near Holetown the sky opened up and rain poured down. Windows went up to stop the rain, sweat drenched everybody, there was no relief from these conditions. With Speightstown in sight I hopped off, only to find myself next to the Stop By Bar... So why not!
This little rum shop resembled a pavilion, with locals waiting to catch a bus to Bridgetown. Their special was Heineken, as the shop’s paint job advertised, and I quickly downed two to recover from the stuffy bus ride. Bidding goodbye to the owner and the few patrons waiting for buses I hit the nearby Chefette for a quick snack and wandered into town to begin my tour in earnest.
There I came upon Limerz Sports Bar, already hopping at about 11:30 in the morning. I ordered a Banks, and tried to order a cutter (sandwich) but they were out. Only fish and macaroni pie on the menu today, and I had already had plenty of that at Oistins so I figured my stay would be short. A few minutes later an older gentleman, well intoxicated, tapped me on the shoulder. He needed a hand packing some groceries into his backpack and I aided him get his goods stowed away. “Where are you from?” he asked me.
“New Jersey, USA”.
“Aaah, come here! Come here!”
Next thing I knew, I was seated and being introduced to all of the regulars. A couple of empty rum bottles and plastic cups littered the small table. The several hearty men that were still there were mixing sodas with rum and laughing away. I was asked to join them. Of course!
Now, I can’t remember all of the folks I met, but Lloyd was one of the regulars who was sitting next to me and asked about our trip to the island. Which, of course, lead to another bottle of rum for the group as I told about our flight from New York, the trip to Harrison’s Cave in the rain, and the Catamaran ride along the coast. We discussed football, both English and the American variety, and upcoming plans for the Easter weekend. This is what’s called liming in Barbados; talking about everything while enjoying some drinks.
When I finally took note of the time, I realized that I had stayed much longer than I thought I would and needed to make my way back to the Coconut Court hotel in Hastings. Lloyd was leaving too, and the rest of the fellows were either continuing to lime or nearly falling asleep in their chairs! Lloyd and I crossed the street to the bus terminal and boarded the bus headed south, as he told me it was “a non-stop flight back to Bridgetown!"
He left a few stops down the line, but little did I know this was an express bus; it bypassed Bridgetown and made its final stop in Oistins. At first I didn’t realize where I had arrived, until I spotted Hercules Bar, a now familiar sight in this fishing village. I knew I could catch a ZR back at any minute, so with the best of intentions I wandered into Hercules for a quick beer.
Here’s where things get hazy...or fuzzy...or both.
I was the only person there besides the bartender. Soon after, a Bajan man and woman strolled in and ordered a flask of Johnny Walker. I greeted them with a “good afternoon” and finished my beer. As I stood to leave, the bartender slid a fresh Banks beer in front of me and said, “from the gentleman and lady over there.”
Now I couldn’t leave.
I moved to their end of the bar and introduced myself. I can’t remember if his name was Thomas, or maybe Timothy? I never got the woman’s name. I asked him if this was his wife, he said “No, my drinking buddy”. Whether that was code for mistress or something else, I’ll never know and didn’t find it relevant to pursue.
Lime number two of the day began, as I purchased a second flask of Johnny Walker for the three of us! The gist of the conversation is much lost to memory, but involved more of our travel stories, the restaurants we had tried, and so on.
Empty flask on the bar, I really, REALLY knew I had to get back to the hotel. The couple stayed for more spirits while I trekked to the bus stop. Old reliable No. 11 ZR minibus sped by in a few, and I was on my way back.
At the Coconut Court I found Michele still enjoying her beach day. Rum-fueled me was escorted to a chair, where I recounted the day’s tales in great detail to her, Antonio the bartender from the beach bar, and anybody willing to take the time to listen to the story. Following that was a long nap on the beach, waking up when the sun had set, and venturing off for some dinner before retiring to fully recover!
And that is my day at the rum shops...
As I see it, any trip to Barbados should include a visit to a rum shop, or two, or more. Starting with a general plan may sound good in theory, but in reality that will change as soon as you are immersed in the local culture and welcomed by the island’s friendly people!
TRAVEL TIPS:
Find a Rum Shop! - That’s easy. They say that there as many rum shops as churches in Barbados. Some say 500, others 1,000. Or more. Look for brightly painted buildings that advertize the sponsor’s beer or rum. Or ask one of the locals. You’re probably within walking distance of several.
Meet the Locals! - The true experience of the rum shops is meeting the wonderful people of Barbados and “liming” or “having a good lime”, talking about everything possible. Sports are always a hot topic, and cricket is the national obsession. With a literacy rate of nearly 100%, Bajans are well informed and easily discuss world cultures and news.
Drink! - Rum, of course. Or other liquors. Buy it by the bottle, pick a size such as a mini (small) or flask (large) depending on how many people are in the group. Grab a plastic cup and some mixer to go with. Beer, generally Banks (although some rum shops have various choices) is served ice cold in the bottle.
Eat! - Rum shops serve up delicious local foods at cheap prices. Try some flying fish, macaroni pie, cutters (sandwiches), fish cakes, or even pudding and souse on a Saturday.
MOST Important!!! - Nothing will spoil a day at the rum shops worse than drinking and driving. Use the bus, call a taxi, or walk back if you’re close enough. Common sense will make sure that all of your rum shop memories are fond!
