A Day At The Rum Shops - An Island Pub Crawl

Any trip to Barbados would not be complete without indulging in rum. The island is the birthplace of this strong liquor, with a long history and culture based around it. When Michele and I returned to Barbados for our second trip we decided we should have a day where she would relax on the beach, and I would explore the island absorbing the local rum culture. I had a plan; after breakfast I would venture to Speightstown, far north on the island, and make my way back, visiting the rum shops that the island is famous for. If all went well, I would return early in the afternoon....

My journey started on Thursday morning, I took the bus into Bridgetown, grabbed a coconut water to hydrate, then transferred to the Speightstown bus to begin the ride north. Packed full of people, we left the bus terminal. It’s a long ride, so in the meantime, what’s a rum shop?

Imagine your favorite local bar. Usually, it’s just the regulars; everyday folks from right around the neighborhood. Now, take that setting, and place it in the Caribbean. Take that building, reduce it to the size of a small one story house. Add several open doors for a welcoming environment. Have a few tables and chairs, maybe some radios and televisions. Stock the bar with flasks of rum and liquor, Banks and/or other beers, and perhaps groceries and such. There might be a small kitchen serving up some local eats, a few snacks, and not much else. Leave now if you like “Fancy”.

Back to the bus ride....More folks got on at each stop and now the bus was crammed and stuffy, even with all of the windows open. Near Holetown the sky opened up and rain poured down. Windows went up to stop the rain, sweat drenched everybody, there was no relief from these conditions. With Speightstown in sight I hopped off, only to find myself next to the Stop By Bar... So why not!

This little rum shop resembled a pavilion, with locals waiting to catch a bus to Bridgetown. Their special was Heineken, as the shop’s paint job advertised, and I quickly downed two to recover from the stuffy bus ride. Bidding goodbye to the owner and the few patrons waiting for buses I hit the nearby Chefette for a quick snack and wandered into town to begin my tour in earnest.

There I came upon Limerz Sports Bar, already hopping at about 11:30 in the morning. I ordered a Banks, and tried to order a cutter (sandwich) but they were out. Only fish and macaroni pie on the menu today, and I had already had plenty of that at Oistins so I figured my stay would be short. A few minutes later an older gentleman, well intoxicated, tapped me on the shoulder. He needed a hand packing some groceries into his backpack and I aided him get his goods stowed away. “Where are you from?” he asked me.

“New Jersey, USA”.

“Aaah, come here! Come here!”

Next thing I knew, I was seated and being introduced to all of the regulars. A couple of empty rum bottles and plastic cups littered the small table. The several hearty men that were still there were mixing sodas with rum and laughing away. I was asked to join them. Of course!

Now, I can’t remember all of the folks I met, but Lloyd was one of the regulars who was sitting next to me and asked about our trip to the island. Which, of course, lead to another bottle of rum for the group as I told about our flight from New York, the trip to Harrison’s Cave in the rain, and the Catamaran ride along the coast. We discussed football, both English and the American variety, and upcoming plans for the Easter weekend. This is what’s called liming in Barbados; talking about everything while enjoying some drinks.

When I finally took note of the time, I realized that I had stayed much longer than I thought I would and needed to make my way back to the Coconut Court hotel in Hastings. Lloyd was leaving too, and the rest of the fellows were either continuing to lime or nearly falling asleep in their chairs! Lloyd and I crossed the street to the bus terminal and boarded the bus headed south, as he told me it was “a non-stop flight back to Bridgetown!"
He left a few stops down the line, but little did I know this was an express bus; it bypassed Bridgetown and made its final stop in Oistins. At first I didn’t realize where I had arrived, until I spotted Hercules Bar, a now familiar sight in this fishing village. I knew I could catch a ZR back at any minute, so with the best of intentions I wandered into Hercules for a quick beer.

Here’s where things get hazy...or fuzzy...or both.

I was the only person there besides the bartender. Soon after, a Bajan man and woman strolled in and ordered a flask of Johnny Walker. I greeted them with a “good afternoon” and finished my beer. As I stood to leave, the bartender slid a fresh Banks beer in front of me and said, “from the gentleman and lady over there.”

Now I couldn’t leave.

I moved to their end of the bar and introduced myself. I can’t remember if his name was Thomas, or maybe Timothy? I never got the woman’s name. I asked him if this was his wife, he said “No, my drinking buddy”. Whether that was code for mistress or something else, I’ll never know and didn’t find it relevant to pursue.


Lime number two of the day began, as I purchased a second flask of Johnny Walker for the three of us! The gist of the conversation is much lost to memory, but involved more of our travel stories, the restaurants we had tried, and so on.

Empty flask on the bar, I really, REALLY knew I had to get back to the hotel. The couple stayed for more spirits while I trekked to the bus stop. Old reliable No. 11 ZR minibus sped by in a few, and I was on my way back.

At the Coconut Court I found Michele still enjoying her beach day. Rum-fueled me was escorted to a chair, where I recounted the day’s tales in great detail to her, Antonio the bartender from the beach bar, and anybody willing to take the time to listen to the story. Following that was a long nap on the beach, waking up when the sun had set, and venturing off for some dinner before retiring to fully recover!

And that is my day at the rum shops...

As I see it, any trip to Barbados should include a visit to a rum shop, or two, or more. Starting with a general plan may sound good in theory, but in reality that will change as soon as you are immersed in the local culture and welcomed by the island’s friendly people!

TRAVEL TIPS:

Find a Rum Shop! - That’s easy. They say that there as many rum shops as churches in Barbados. Some say 500, others 1,000. Or more. Look for brightly painted buildings that advertize the sponsor’s beer or rum. Or ask one of the locals. You’re probably within walking distance of several.

Meet the Locals! - The true experience of the rum shops is meeting the wonderful people of Barbados and “liming” or “having a good lime”, talking about everything possible. Sports are always a hot topic, and cricket is the national obsession. With a literacy rate of nearly 100%, Bajans are well informed and easily discuss world cultures and news.

Drink! - Rum, of course. Or other liquors. Buy it by the bottle, pick a size such as a mini (small) or flask (large) depending on how many people are in the group. Grab a plastic cup and some mixer to go with. Beer, generally Banks (although some rum shops have various choices) is served ice cold in the bottle.

Eat! - Rum shops serve up delicious local foods at cheap prices. Try some flying fish, macaroni pie, cutters (sandwiches), fish cakes, or even pudding and souse on a Saturday.

MOST Important!!! - Nothing will spoil a day at the rum shops worse than drinking and driving. Use the bus, call a taxi, or walk back if you’re close enough. Common sense will make sure that all of your rum shop memories are fond!

More Than Sun and Sand - Negril’s Seven Mile Beach

Living at the Jersey Shore, we’re very familiar with the beach during the summer months. The traffic, the beach badges, the crowded sands, the lists of rules. Michele and I took our first trip to Jamaica in April of 2009 and stayed at the Negril Beach Club, located on Negril’s Seven Mile Beach. We soon found out that it was a whole different world when compared to the beaches of the Jersey Shore that we’re used to! Here’s the travel tips you need to get the most out of your experience on the Jamaican beaches. Even if you’re staying somewhere other than Negril, the same general info applies.

We were fortunate to be staying at a beach club with direct access to the sands. A simple walk down the stairs from the room, a right turn, and about a hundred yards away was the beach, making it a short and sweet trip.

Staying on the west end of Negril or not at a beachfront property? No problem! By law, all beaches in Jamaica are open to the public to enjoy. It’s considered a right of all Jamaican citizens and visitors to enjoy the beaches without charge and the properties along the beach provide an access from the road for people to walk through. From there you can walk up and down the beach to find an ideal spot to spend the day.

Compared to most east coast beaches in the summer, Negril would be considered vacant. There was always a good amount of open space, even at the Beach Club that catered to travelers. A lifeguard was present at the club, however he was not the whistle-blowing rule enforcer we’re generally accustomed to. His main job seemed to be public relations; he would sit in the lifeguard chair and chat with people, then every couple of hours come down and walk around the beach, introducing himself and making sure beach patrons had everything they need, bring more beach chairs, and so forth.

A small bar was located on our property, nice for getting cold beverages to enjoy on the beach. Many of the adjacent properties also had similar bars. You can easily walk the sands to get your fill of Red Stripe and rum!

Because the beaches are public, it offers something you won’t see in the United States, the beach vendors. This may be a fond or unpleasant experience depending on how you view it. Vendors walk the beach selling everything from lobster and fruit to aloe, sandals, and jewelry. Of course, you haven’t been to Jamaica until a beach hustler tries to sell you the ganja! Beach vendors may be persistent, however if you tell them no a time or two and then ignore it, they will continue on. Engage them, and they’re likely to start a hard negotiation. Haggling is generally always acceptable to negotiate a price for goods.

The benefit is that you can spend the entire day on the beach and not need to leave your chair! In the morning, Jamaicans selling fresh squeezed juices would wander by. Once or twice a day the fruit lady would walk past with a large basket of pineapple, mango and coconut and cut it fresh. Around noon the Patty Man would make an appearance, riding a bicycle with an insulated container on front selling Jamaican patties, a delicious spicy meat filled pie. One of our favorite beach walkers was a gentleman that one of our cab drivers told us was referred to as ‘The Mighty Bass’. He walked the sands of Seven Mile Beach with a portable megaphone and would announce upcoming shows to crowds of sunbathers, always saying the show was going to be “HOT...Hot...hot”. His assistants would follow and hand out fliers promoting the upcoming concert.

Had enough sun and swimming and want to check out a jet ski? No problem! You can rent a jet ski, go parasailing, or take a glass bottom boat ride as well! Your biggest obstacle will be negotiating a price, and after that you’re free to go.

I have just one word of warning - once you’ve experienced the beaches in Jamaica the ones back home just don’t compare! Better keep your passport handy for another trip to the islands!

TRAVEL TIPS:

Bring all of your standard beach accessories including plenty of sunscreen!

All Jamaican beaches are public, no badges or fees are required and beachfront establishments have access paths to the sand. Taxi transportation is easily found; use only vehicles with red license plates and be sure to negotiate fares.

Alcoholic beverages may be consumed on the beach. Glass containers are acceptable, be courteous and take empty bottles away.

Beach vendors sell a variety of items and haggling is acceptable. Vendors will attempt to sell you many items including food, juice, jewelry, trinkets, aloe, and ganja. If approached and you are not interested, say no and you will generally be left alone. Be persistent with saying no if the seller continues, and they will walk on. Use common sense when buying; contrary to myth, ganja (marijuana) is illegal in Jamaica and while the laws are seldom enforced you may be subject to penalties if caught by authorities.

Lifeguards may or may not be present, depending on where you stay. Remember to swim within your abilities.

Topless sunbathing is permitted. More than that is a general no-no.

Jet skis, boat tours, parasailing and other activities are available. Be aware that these activities are generally not regulated like in the United States.